When – 13 February
Where – Zennor to St Ives
Distance – 6 miles
Home for the night – Tregony Guest House, St Ives
After two days on the Cornwall Coastal Path where we saw hardly a soul, today was a bit like walking on the trail equivalent of the M25! Ok, Inca Trail it wasn’t – but it was the first time it’s been clear that we’re walking during half term week. And while the vast majority of our fellow trail goers seemed very nice, one group, who I christened ‘the fraggles’ (because the first time we encountered them they were emerging from a pile of rocks) were a bit of a pain in the arse.
‘Why’s that’, I don’t hear you cry. Because just as we passed them they started walking straight away. And they were walking at the same speed. And they were a very noisy group, which kind of detracted from our enjoyment of the spectacular surroundings. No sense of trail etiquette from them then – if only they had waited 5 or 10 minutes to let us be free of them.
Then we tried the hanging back and letting them get in front approach – no mean feat as it was a cold and insistent wind blowing out there today. The sods kept on stopping and we’d bump into them again…
Anyway, enough of them – and eventually we did shake them off. I think the trail by St Ives is just very popular, and it is great that people are getting out and enjoying it. Hopefully we’ll get it back to ourselves soon though!
The book (the British Walking Guide series) warned that this 6 mile section is the toughest part of the Coastal Path but it didn’t seem as up and down as some previous bits I’ve walked with Will (like the stretch that did his knee in for over a year afterwards!).
Zennor Head (where the picture is from) was a particularly beautiful section of today’s walk, but it was all beautifully rugged. Trevalgan ancient stone circle was no stonehenge but it was still awfully old – and had a great view, although coastal erosion must mean it’s a lot closer to the coast than it used to be. And the first glimpses of St Ives were lovely – there’s something about the way the light bounces off of Portmeor Sands that made me understand why the area attracts so many artists.
We’re having a day off in St Ives. Museums, a possible spa visit and the new Muppet Movie are all potentially in the offing. Hurrah!
This blog, and the previous two days worth, is bought to you courtesy of the first bit of functioning wifi I’ve had since London. Thanks Tregony Guest House!